Food Panorama

I had taken some pics on my trip to Lucknow.

Royal Cafe: Chat King


Makes one of the best Chat in Lucknow. Huge variety available here backed by very good service. Costly, but value for money. Chat Basket is their speciality(35 bucks). Excellent clientele and gentry. The restraunt behind the doors is excellent too, with speciality in Muglai and Awadhi food. Serving since early twenthy century. Located bang in the middle of MG Road, next to Capoor’s.

Ritz Continental: Veggie Delight


Two branches: one at Sapru Marg, other at Mahanagar. One of the best Veggie stuff in the city. I loved its Stuffed Nan with Dal Tadka. Good chinese food too. An old favourite.

Rovers: Burger King


Our hang out for Burgers. Small shop with no seating facility at MG Road. Great hit with college crowd.

Mini and Moti Mahal: Sweet


Delicious sweets. Owned by MM grouo who have chain of eateries in Lucknow(Madhurmilan, Madhurima, Moti Mahal, Mini Mahal) and one in Pune(Manmeet Lucknawi Chat) too.

Aryan: Namesake


A namesake of Aryan, this is a new fast food chain hugely popular amongst crowd for hanging out. Aryan would love it.

TimesNow

The Foodie in TimesNow finally gave Lucknow its due. As if in act of over repentance for neglecting it for so long, it dedicated four exclusive weekends to Awadhi cusine with an eclectic combination ranging from Kakori Kebabs to Mutton Harabhara.

They are yet to provide links of the latest episode yesterday which covered winter specialities of Lucknow, but all other links up and for the benefit of those who have missed the episodes, and want to know the recepies here are the links.

The Foodie Cookbook: Lucknow - The City of the Nawabs (First Episode)
In this episode, Nawab Jaffar Mir Abdullah talk about Mutton Korma and Raan Ke Kebabs. For those who are not aware, Raan is thigh in Awadhi.

The Foodie Cookbook: Daawat-e-Lucknow (Second Episode )
Here The Foodie is treated at the lawns of beautiful Chhota Imambara, with delicacies like Khadi Masoor Ki Dal , Lucknowi Mutton Dum Biryani and Shahi Tukda.

The Foodie Cookbook: Lucknow Kababs (Third Episode)
Simple Kebabs. First a trip to legendry Tunde Kebabs at Nazeerabad lane near Aminabad. The Tunde kebabs are basically Galawati Kebabs(they melt in mouth therefore are called so) with are eaten with Roomali Rotis, Sheermal (an orange-coloured saffron-flavoured naan, made only in Lucknow), Khameeri naan or Ulta Tawa Parathas. But Tunde's deserve a complete post so some time later. Promise.

Then he moves to a restaurant called NausheerJaan in Hazratganj, where the cook shows how to cook Malai Mewa Kebab , Majlisi Kebab , Pasanda Kebab , Kakori Kebab .

The Foodie Cookbook: Lucknow Winter Specials (Fourth Episode)
They haven't put up the link of this episode as of yet. It started in some Nawabi Haveli which I missed out. All the dishes are Lucknow winter specials. A newly wed of just five days along with her husband tells us about Mutton Harabhara. Later her mother-in-law shows how to cook Egg Halwa.

The Foodie, then moves to Chowk in old Lucknow where he learns how to prepare spicy Kashimiri Chai which is drunk-cum-eaten with soaked Samosa and Balai( Malai). Then he gets to taste delicious Kali Gajar Ka Halwa of which foodie had never heard about. He later put his hands on the yummy Makkhan Malai which is a fluffy cream prepared by putting the stuff open in dew whole night.

They missed out a lot of stuff because sky is the limit in Lucknow, but to their credit they did well by giving a whole month to Lucknow.

Baal Mithai

Apart from beautiful Joshis, Pants, Upadhyays, Sahs and Nautiyals, the hills of Uttrakhand(which was Uttaranchal till 3 days back) have also produced an outrageously delicious sweet delicacy called Baal Mithai.

Unfortunately, most non-pahadis outside the precinct of Almora and thereabouts are oblivious about it, but not me. This is because one of my closest buddies is an Upadhyay himself. Till I was a resident of Lucknow, I have enjoyed this heavenly sweet after every summer break when Uppadhyas would pack their bags to the cool climes of Pithauragarh, and on the way back will bring this manna for waiting us. God bless them.

The perplexing part is that there are no pretenders to the throne in other cities - the copycats - who will make the Bikaneri Shevs in Calcutta, and calls it Haldiram Nagpurwale, or that junkie in Pune who makes a mess of potatoes, and calls it Lucknow Ki Chat. But probably that is a blessing in disguise because then authenticity remains and consumer is not left with bad taste in mouth - literally.

About ingredients. Its brownish in colour, cuboidal in shape, laced with abundant servings of sugar cloaked Khas Khas seeds on the six surfaces.The sweet it self is made up of roasted Khoya, but believe me folks - this brown Khoya stuff is different from famous brown Brijwasi's(Mathura)Peda, or brown Benarasi Kalakand. It's just different.

Hardish just it may seem, it not just dissolves - it evaporates in the mouth. The sugar coated Khas seeds gives another twist to the taste - the crunchy effect while chewing. The khas-sugar combination also helps in keeping mouth wet while devouring this relatively dry sweet.

I hope I have developed enough interest and awareness about this yummy. If you plan to travel to Uttarakhand, or have a pahadi friend who might have come back from home recently - go fetch it. I am sure s/he may have a handful of same perched safely around some corner. At first sight it may look like fungal growth, but its not. Khas khas is herb and has medicinal properties, which insures long shelf life of this sweet.

Lucknow: What and Where To Eat

There is no better place to eat, but stomach do not have so much space. Nawabs loved their cuisine, and so do the current inhabitants, therefore almost in every colony of the city, especially the old city, one can find a famous joint serving your favourite delicacy.

Amongst fruits, Lucknow is famous for it's Dusheri Mangos, Safeda Kharbuja(Cantaloupe), and Gulab Falsey(Blueberries). So if you happen to be there, heaven's forbid, in Summer - that's the season to enjoy them.

Nawabs are credited to have discovered Dum Pukht(slow, prolonged cooking) style of cooking. So all the Dum varieties are popular over here be it Dum Biryani, Dum Mutton, Dum Murg or even Dum Aloo.

Amongst rice varities, Lucknow is known for it's Pulav - especially Noor Pulav, Moti Pulav, and Chameli Pulav. Sweet Pulav like Mazafar, and Khat-Miththe Pulav are popular too.

Roomali Roti, and Sheermal has distinct style. They are prepared and treated differently over here than the rest of the country.

And the Kebabs. This is the land of Kebabs. There is a shop called Tunde Kebabi in Aminabad and Chowk which is world famous. Shop is over hundered years old, and it's stuff get's exported abroad. Kakori's Nargisi and Seek Kebabs are in huge demand in every Muglai kitchen. Last but not least, Sakhawat's Shami and Galawat Kebabs are mouth watering too.

Hotel Taj Residency, Hotel Clarks Awadh, and Carton Hotel serve most of the popular stuff available here, but the real stuff is in the bylanes. There is shop of Mushtaq Mian near press club which is famous for it's Biryani and Kebab. There is always decent crowd in Rahim's shop in Maulviganj, which serves delicious Nahri Kulche. Biryani at Tulsi Plaza, and Sharma's Lucknow Ki Chaat are also well known.

In Chowk near Akbari Gate, which is the heart of the old city, there is place called Shahganj. It has numerous food joints serving delicious delicacies. Then there is Kali Mirch Ka Murga in Charbagh's Maharaja Hotel, which is very famous.

To satiate your sweet buds too, there are a lot of arrangements. Ram Asre, and Moti Mahal in HazratGanj, while Kabra Ki Dukaan, which is now known as Madhurima, ar Sri Ram Road Aminabad are famous for their sweet meat. Kishori sweets and Khairati's Namkeen are very popular in this part of the world.

Ram Asre's never uses tap water in their sweets because the washer in them has the animal leather. Not only this, they always use raw sugar instead of prepared sugar from the market because bones are used in the cleansing of sugar. His sweets are believed to be perfect fit for offering to God.

Makhkhan Malai or Lab-e-Mashook is known and eaten only in Lucknow during winters. It is prepared near Kali Ji's Mandir in Chowk and supplied to the whole city. No body other than the manufacturers know the exact recipe of the preparation.

Ram Asre's Malai Pan and Tirangi Barfi are Lucknow's orginal. Chowk's Raja's Thandai Lassi, Raja Bazar's Kapurkand, Radhe Lal's Doodhiya Barfi, Kali Gajar Ka Halwa, Rajbhog, Aam Ki Kheer, and Mewey Ka Dhoodh are famous. In Yahiyaganj Tatpatti Ki Rabri, in Aishbagh Babulal's Khasta-Kachaudi, Netram's Jalebi and Imarti, Pindi's Chhena sweets are very popular amongst the city residents.

The list has become too long, and I am still not even half over. No detailed mention of Lucknow's trademark Imartees and Revdiyan for which it is well known. So you can see there is much much more to offer, but as I said earlier, there is not much space left in the stomach. You all must have already started burping aloud.

Rest of the story may be some other time. Till then you all can enjoy the above stuff in your imagination.

Mirchi Kola

Somewhat in the middle of the Pune city, there is MG Road. Somewhat in the middle of MG Road, there is a hip, hep, and much harped about restraunt called Mirchi Kola.

Recommended by a friend, tried its food last night. The trial turned out to be an error, literally. True to its name, Biryani was all mirchi and Cola( read dichloro-diphenyl-trichloroethane ) I didn't order.

The whole gut was burning. Water was extensively used to ease that out. No that all was teekha. The Sabzi was actually meethi. I shoo away from sugary vegetable curries, and as a rule, make sure with the person taking the order that there is no sugar in the dish. But never expected good old Saag Makai would be tampered too.

Caught between the devil and deep sea, kisi tarah bhookh mitai. Of course, no tip. For me, the Biryani at Le Meridian has still found no match in Pune and not to say Lucknowi one - the king of all Biryanis. This Mirchi Kola has badly fizzled out.

Cuisine Capital

Not that it needed a certifciate from foreigners, still nice words are always more than welcome. Lucknow’s supremacy as India’s cuisine capital is confirmed. The City of Nawabs has found a place in French cuisine magazine Saveur. For food lovers, here is the complete news.

City Specials

Having been travelled to many cities, and even if not travelled, one does get an idea what are the special gourmet delicacies of various cities. Here is what I think of them. Reader's suggestions, are welcome.

Pune: Bakerwadis, WadaPav, Modhak, Kayani Baker’s Shrewsbury biscuits, Chittale Bandu's Amra Barfi, Karachi SweetMart, Lakshminarian's Chiwda.

Lucknow:
Dussehri, Lucknawi, Chausa, Langda Mangoes(in total 1300 varieties, ahem, including names like Kali Ghata, Badlur Asmar, Suhagsisi, Shyam Sunder, Kelwa Misri);

Tunde's Shami, Seekh, Boti, Kakori, Patili, Ghutwa and Galawati Kebabs;

Dum Korma, Dum Murg, Dum Biryani, Roomali Roti, Nahari Kulcha, Warqi Paratha, Sheermal, Dahi-Tikki-Chaat, Falooda Kulfi, Revadiayan.

Kanpur: Badnaam Besan-MotiChoor Ladoo, Kajoo Barfi, Makhan Singh's Biryani, Dosa at IIT-Gate, Malai Paan at Birhana Road.

Varanasi: Kalakand, Barfi Sweets, Chaat, Banarasi Paan(Betel leaf), Nimmish.

Kolkotta: Roshugulla, Mishthi Doi, Paan(Betel leaf), Chum Chum.

Delhi: Paratha at Paranthe Wali Gali, Chaat at Bengali Market and Sunder Nagar, Bhelpuri at Greater Kailash and Sweetmeats from Annapoorna and Ghantewala.

Allahabad: Guavas.
Nagpur: Oranges, Haldiram
Jaipur: Ghevar
Agra: Petha
Mathura: Brijwasi's Peda
Orai: Gulab Jamun
Mumbai: Bhelpuri, Pav Bhaji, Bombay Halwa.
Hyderabad: Biryani.

I know this list is grossly incomplete. But that's exactly the time I have. Keep suggesting.

Added after suggestions

Ahmedabad: Dhokla, Undhiyu, Khandvi, Mohanthal, Patra, Khichadi Kadhi.
Hardwar: Chotiwala's Chholle Kulche.
Goa: Vindaloo, Fish Curry, Pheni.
Dehradoon: Leechies, Stickjaws from Kwality.
Mahabaleshwar: Strawberries.

Biryani At The Roof Top

It's been long since I have been in Pune and I can assure you that this place is a gourmet's delight, for the sheer fact that there are more eateries (and banks ) per square km over here, than any other part of the country. Much as Lucknow has more ex-chief ministers per square km than any other part in country.

But as often happens, quality suffer due to quantity. This is more true in case of Muglai(known as Punjabi) and South Indian dishes. The biggest culprits are the cluster of restraunts present at picturesque Chandini Chowk(Yes Delhites, amchi Pune also has one) . Then there is farcical Manmeet on Ferguesson College Road. On the name of Lucknow, it mostly serves rubbish.

Since it's has been a long time out of Lucknow, it's also a long time I have tasted that delicious Biryani outside King George Medical College gate, or Tunde's Lucknawi and Kakori Kebab. Of course, my gastro-intestinal condition has also played a big role in denying me this pleasure .

But last Friday, I had a pleasant surprise. We (especially Ashish ) coaxed benevolent Saurabh for a treat at Le Meridian. Everyone knows these 5 stars are notorious for bad food. I have had mixed experience - good food at Sun-N-Sand, Pune and bad at Taj Blue Diamond, Pune and Landmark, Kanpur.

I had ordered( I find this word very derogatory in this context) for myself Sabz-Ki-Tehri along with Daal Chingari and others had requested for Chicken Biryani along with other dishes. It was really really yummy experience and it reminded us of those old delicious days. We over ate ourselves, and still Dil longed for more. Everything seemed to just melt in our mouths. We still feel the hang over of the rice varieties we tasted there.

So those fellas, who happen to be in Pune must check out the roof top restraunt at Le Meridian for these delicacies. Others should wait for their turn. Either they should arrange for a visit to Lucknow or to Pune. But one thing is sure, this whole experience is ten times more costlier in Pune than in City of Nawabs.